What is the botanical origin of Oakmoss (prunastri)?
Oakmoss, scientifically known as Evernia prunastri, is a species of lichen found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including regions of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and Central Europe.
Where does Oakmoss grow, and what trees does it prefer?
Oakmoss grows primarily on the trunks and branches of oak trees but can also be found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine.
What is the appearance of Oakmoss?
Oakmoss thalli are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, growing in large clumps on bark. They are flat, strap-like, and highly branched, resembling deer antlers. The color of Oakmoss ranges from green to greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture is rough when dry and rubbery when wet.
What is the smell and fragrance profile of Oakmoss?
Oakmoss has a distinct and complex odor described as woody, sharp, and slightly sweet. Oakmoss growing on pines has a pronounced turpentine odor, which is valued in certain perfume compositions.
How is Oakmoss used in perfumery?
Oakmoss is extensively used in modern perfumery as a key ingredient, particularly in Fougère and Chypre class perfumes. It acts as a fixative, improving the longevity of the fragrance while lending a rich, earthy, forest-like aroma to the composition.
How is Oakmoss harvested and processed for use in perfumes?
Oakmoss is commercially harvested in South-Central Europe and is exported to Grasse, France, where its fragrant compounds are extracted to create Oakmoss absolutes and extracts. These raw materials are then used as perfume fixatives.
FAQs on Oakmoss Absolute
The raw materials used to produce Oakmoss in perfumery include the lichen *Evernia prunastri*, which is processed into Oakmoss absolutes and extracts, often used as base notes in fragrances.
Oakmoss essential oil can be obtained by solvent extraction or vacuum distillation. The oil produced by solvent extraction is dark green or brown in color and has a strong, natural, earthy-mossy scent with slight leather undertones.
Oakmoss is used for its earthy, forest-like fragrance and is often used to enhance the longevity of perfumes. It can also take away the rough edges of chemical compounds, making the fragrance blend smell more natural.
Oakmoss serves as a fixative, improving the longevity of perfumes and lending a delicate, damp, creamy-soft trail to the fragrance composition. It is invaluable in Amber bases and often used in accords where many chemicals are present.
Oakmoss is essential in creating Fougère and Chypre perfumes, as it provides a natural, long-lasting base note. It is one of the most important ingredients in men's fragrances, especially those in the Fougère family.
Oakmoss has been severely restricted due to skin sensitization concerns, leading to its removal from many major fragrances. Despite this, it remains an essential component in many classic perfumes. The synthetic versions cannot fully replicate the complex aroma of natural Oakmoss.
Historically, Oakmoss has been used as an integral part of the Fougère family of fragrances, along with lavender and geranium, to create a new family of fragrances popular in men's scents. It also forms long-lasting bases when combined with musks and patchouli.
Oakmoss is primarily harvested in South-Central Europe, with significant exports to Grasse, France, where the majority of perfume houses are situated. The demand for Oakmoss in perfumery continues to be strong, although regulatory concerns have reduced its use in recent years.
One of the main challenges in using Oakmoss today is its restriction due to skin sensitization issues. However, it remains an essential ingredient for its unique fragrance profile, and there is no synthetic alternative that fully captures the complete essence of Oakmoss.
